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Over time Wood You Like has introduced various draws, for instances for the best DIY-er per month or when participating in one of our surveys. This time, every order counts towards the
Every order counts, as long as you place it between now (20.05.17) and the end of June (so before 01.07.17).
On the first of July we will draw 5 lucky winners who all will receive a tremendous information pack (with a total value of over £ 30.00: Wooden Floor Installation Manuel (E-guide), The Ultimate Maintenance Guide, 7 Easy Steps to Repair/Restore your Parquet Floor and Buying Guide for Wooden Floors) PLUS for one of these five lucky winners we will refund the purchase price (excluding delivery charges) of the order drawn.
Place you order now and you might win the "Win-Back-your-Purchase-Price-Prize"!
As said above, all orders, no matter their total amount or type of product purchased, will be entered into the Pre-Summer Draw. Your order must be placed (and paid for) between 20.05.2017 and 30.06.2017 to be a valid entry. That is the only requirement, we can't make it any simpler!
The 5 winners of this Pre-Summer Draw will receive an email, containing the information pack, in the first full week of July 2017, the winner of the "Win-Back-your-Purchase-Price-Prize" will be refunded the purchase price (excluding delivery charges) before Saturday 08.07.17
Recently we received the following question (if you have a question of your own, simply use the ?Help button at the bottom of every page):
Hi there, I've just installed a reclaimed mosaic floor and am now stuck on what to do next. Part of the wood is tropical and part of the wood is Oak. How do I finish this the best way? Some tell me I should not use the same oil on the Oak as I plan to use on the tropical, is this so?
Well, "some" are partly right, tropical wood-species are oily of themselves and applying a HardWaxOil might give problems. The oil in the HWO will not penetrate the wood in the same way (or time) it does on blond wood-species, such as Oak, and could end up in a patchy result. Your best bet would be to use the thin oil, specially made for the first coat on tropical species, also as the first coat on the Oak - especially handy when both species are installed rather mixed, as can happen with reclaimed floors.
The thin oil will do its job perfectly on both the tropical and the Oak. Then, although on tropical one coat of hardwaxoil would suffice, it does not harm the wood if you also apply two coats of HardWaxOil normally done on the Oak wood. For your benefit, and for others too of course, we have combined Saicos Clean thin Oil and Saicos HardWaxOil in one product: The Tropical Combo, available in both 0.75 ltr tins as in 2.5 ltr tins.
(Own example of mixed species in one floor, in this case we discovered 5! different species)
Anyone who ever saw an old fashion parquet floor, battered by time, has been left in awe of it. So when you see an offer of old reclaimed parquet blocks, many are prone to jump on the offer and have it installed in their own home.
But be aware of the following:
There are however reputable suppliers who have new "reclaimed" parquet blocks for you: battered for the old fashioned look without the above problems. They might be a bit more in price than real reclaimed blocks, but if you add the time, trouble and sometimes even the cost of removing the bitumen the new blocks often come out at the same or even lower price.
Often these news blocks come half-prefinished, so you only have to finish them, after you installed them, with a maintenance polish such as Saicos Wax-Care polish or Basin Aunt Poly's polishing wax for an even more authentic look. Others come unfinished, and you have to be carefully installing them to prevent spillages and stains of the modern adhesive, and can be finished with for instance Saicos HardWaxOil.
Who knows, you might end up with a grand new reclaimed floor such as the one below:
In the last post we mentioned we receive a lot of questions in regards of maintaining/restoring and repairing wooden floors. Like this one, we received this week:
I have just uncovered a parquet floor. It looks like a pale mahogany and appears to have no finish on it. It was probably installed in the 1950's.
I was thinking of sanding to remove some unevenness and then coating with Saicos Hard Wax Oil. Should I apply Saicos Ground Oil first then the hard wax oil as per the data sheet? Or just apply hard wax oil as the video?
If you have the slightest doubt your wooden floor is not Oak or any of the other non-tropical species, you better use Saicos Ground Oil extra thin for the first coat, followed by one or two coats of Saicos HardWaxOil.
This way it will never cause problems while applying a first coat of HardWaxOil on a tropical wood-species can end up with a very patchy result. Tropical species are oily of themselves which prevents the HardWaxOil to penetrate the surface as it should. The Ground Oil is very thin and will not have this problem.
If you have a question of your own in regards of your wooden floor, simply use the ?Help button you'll find at the bottom of every page on our website. If you use this service for the first time, do click on the link in the email you receive after you submitted your question otherwise it will not land in our inbox
Over the many years Wood You Like has been in business (next year already 15 years!) we must have received over 2000 questions - in our former showroom, over the phone, by email and nowadays mostly through our simple ?Help button. Many of these Frequently Asked questions we gathered together and turned them into helpful guides:
If you have a question, one of the above guides will certainly have the answer. If in those cases you have one that is not (yet) covered in one of the information guides, feel free to use the ?Help button you will find at the bottom of every page on this website (if you are using this service for the first time, be sure to click the link in the email you receive after posting your question otherwise it will not end up in our inbox)
When you are (re)searching products to care or repair your wooden floor, you could be forgiven for becoming overwhelmed by all the products available. Which one, or combination of products, would do everything you want it to do, AND is suitable for it?
Do I need an oil when my floor has been oiled before to bring back its lustre, do I need a cleaning product first and what wax or polish can I apply and how often?
What products do I need when I only have to add a few blocks to our existing parquet floor, and want to sand and re-finish the whole area of flooring?
The list of questions can go on and on.
For this purpose we created so-called "all in one boxes" in our secure webshop, all the items you need for certain care and/or repair jobs.
And don't forget the various guides we created especially for you:
We hope you enjoyed the first month of 2017. Here at Wood You Like we have been looking at the best sellers of last year and present to you the TOP 5:
Great for repairing little damages - down to the bare wood - of your oiled floor, contains the high quality magic cleanser and premium hardwaxoil to touch-up (small) areas where the finish has completely gone
A great hardworking cleaner to remove old dirt and grain is the most natural way - ecofriendly product
Finish your wooden (Oak) floor within one day, again ecofriendly and very, very easy to apply. 1 litre covers 22 sq meters in one coat or 13 sq meters in two coats
Maintains every wooden floor, no matter what finish it has. Keeps it healthy, beautiful and protected against dirt and drips
And on First Place: Ecoline Cleaning Kit for All Finishes
Combining 3 of Saicos Ecoline maintenance product, polishing pads and your own Maintenance Guide in one single order.
Have a browse through all the 5 top sellers and see what they can do for your wooden floor! You can rely on Wood You Like to keep you stocked up with all the eco-friendly products for maintenance and finishing this whole year too!
Having a wooden floor in your home is a beautiful and valuable item. Taking care of it is easy, if you know how to. Therefore we've listed the most common questions and answers on this below:
(Re)finishing your floor.
Only apply an oil on a floor that has been sanded bare, or on an oiled floor that is badly in need of revitalising. NEVER apply a coat of oil on a lacquered/varnished floor without sanding it bare, otherwise you will create an Ice-Skating rink and we believe you do not want that type of winter fun in your home.
On Oak floors, we still think a clear oil finish will bring out the true wonderful character of this great wood-species. Use Saicos Premium HardWaxOil (available in 5 sheens) and finish your floor in one day!
On Tropical w00d-species, use our Saicos Tropical Combo, which contains a very thin oil for the first coat and Premium HardWaxOil for the second and finishing coat. Because tropical species are oily of themselves, applying a hardwaxoil as first coat will take for ever to penetrate and dry, therefore use a thin oil first.
On pine floors, any clear finish will turn your floor ugly orange after a while. To prevent this, apply Saicos Colour Oil Oak as first coat (followed by one coat of hardwaxoil) to turn it into a non-orange and beautiful floor.
Not sure what the original colour of your floor is? Sand a part down, in an unobtrusive corner for instance and apply the "wet-finger" test (or use a tiny bit of water). This will reveal your floor's colour it will have after you apply a clear finish.
If you are restoring a wooden floor, have a look at the Restoration Packs we created especially for this task: one for Oak, one for Tropical and one for Pine floors.
Looking for information on how to restore your wooden floor best, we highly recommend you read this special page on the subject: 7 easy steps
Not sure if your floor needs total restoration including sanding? Simply check your floor with the points on this page: restoring without sanding.
Any further or other question you might have on oiling or restoring your floor, use the ?Help button at the bottom of the page (and if you are using this support option for the first time, look out for the first email and click the email-confirmation link. Only then will your question end up in our inbox!)
On varnished/lacquered floors, use Saicos EcoLine Wax-Care Spray for regular - every 4 -5 months - maintenance
For regular cleaning on all floor finishes, use Saicos EcoLine Wash-care
For thorough cleaning - for instance when you discover a wooden floor underneath an old carpet - use Saicos Magic Cleanser
Want to read en know more about maintaining your wooden floor? The Ultimate Maintenance Guide is your thing
Next time we'll give you a short list on what to use when you need to (re)finish your wooden floor.
We have just uncovered a parquet floor in our dining room, probably mahogany. It is in generally good condition with just a few small dark stains, but unfortunately also quite a lot of white paint splodges. It appears to be have been varnished but this is not at all flaky. We are planning to sand it lightly to remove paint and lighten it. Can we then just apply ecoline wax care? Or do we have to revarnish.
I would be grateful for your advice on the best treatment, thank you
When in doubt and in need to replenish your wooden floor it is always best to use Saicos EcoLine Wax-Care SPRAY, because this product suits all types of finishes.
The wax-care (polish) in only suitable for oiled/waxed floors and will not be properly absorbed by floors with other finishes, meaning you could end up with a very streaky AND slippery floor!
Recently we received the following question - have a question yourself, use the ?Help button at the bottom of every page (do check your inbox if this is the first time you use this service and click the link in the confirmation email, otherwise we will not receive your question):
I have moved into a 1930's property. Hall and front room have block oak parquet flooring, it appears to be have been sanded and lacquered in the past, but that has worn at the bottom of the stairs ( the grain is looking a bit grubby too) and appears a bit patchy( i have noticed its not water resistant in parts, water resistant in others ( water droplets form ) also between some of the blocks where the gaps are quite visible, there is an indication of a deteriorated lacquer of some kind.
The floor still has a nice sheen to it though. I don't really want to re-sand it and would like some advice on how to clean and re-seal it myself if that can be done.
A lacquered/varnished floor that has damage to its finish is a bit difficult to really revamp without sanding. You cannot apply lacquer/varnish over the damaged areas without creating overlapping - ugly - areas.
What you could try is to clean the whole floor with Saicos Magic Cleanser and then applying Saicos Wax-Care Spray - on damaged areas a few times after each other till the floor has absorbed plenty of the "wax" and is protected against dirt and spillages again. here might be a slight difference in appearance between lacquered/varnish areas and areas treated with the wax-care, but it saves you the task of sanding and resealing the whole floor.
See our EcoLine Cleaning Kit containing all the products you need.
When you remove your carpet and discover there is a parquet floor hiding underneath it is most often worth to restore this wooden feature - but sometimes you can encounter (small) problems. We received the following question on the very subject (have a question yourself, use the ?Help button at the bottom of every page)
I have recently purchased a new property and discovered there there is original parquet flooring throughout the ground floor. I have removed the carpet and the grippers to fully check the floor throughout. There are a few loose blocks but can be glued back down, however in 2 areas of either end of the room, there does appear to be zig zag marks which seem to be identical to the pattern on the bottom of the underlay, I have tried to remove this with plain water but with no success.
Ideally we don't want to sand the floor as it is in perfect condition other than this and the colour is great so do not want any lighter. From experience are these marks common? would they come off if we were to use your eco clean line?
My concern is if we do sand is the mark likely to have imbeded into the block so would not disappear anyway?
Any help you can give would be most appreciated
It is one of the more simple to solve problems you can encounter when lifting carpet and (re)discovering a wonderful wooden floor. If you are so lucky to do this and are not sure where to start with the revitalising of your floor, read our article on this - most have found it very helpful.
Below you'll find some of the (very) short questions we also receive through our ?Help desk.
Have a question yourself (long or short, doesn't matter) use the ?Help button on the right-hand corner at the bottom of every page. First time you use this service? Keep an eye out for the confirmation email and click the link, otherwise we'll never see your question.
So, here we go: small talk.
Buffingblock: Is this item no longer available in the UK? Thank you.
Not sure, but since we were a long time the only sellers I do think so - our supplier has (unfortunately) discontinued this product
I'm interested in the coloured waxes for untreated furniture.
The classic oils will be wonderful on any unfinished wooden furniture. The wood needs to be grease free and dry. All you need to do is pick your favourite colour
Can you recommend a filler that i can purchase from a shop such as homebase, b&q, wickes or screwfix?
Why? Is the product we sell not good enough for you?
hi there - just wondering what the difference is between the Wax Ecoline spray and the wax polish, both by Saicos? Many thanks
Help! My husband spilled some varnish (the sort of hard clear stuff used for craft projects) onto the parquet floor. How can I get it off?
Let it dry completely, then remove as much as you can with white-spirit. Afterwards treat the floor with wax polish
I'm going to belt sand our "5 fingered parquet" kitchen floor. It is not a big floor space but it's looking a bit patchy and faded in parts. Can you advise the best grit belts to use?
You could start with grit 60, if that doesn't get rid of all the finish, use grit 40.
For the second sanding round, use grit 80 and then, depending on the finish you planned, use grit 120 for third sanding if you finish with oil - don't go above this grit for oil/wax finish - or 150 if you plan to varnish/lacquer the floor
going to renovate 60`s parquet flooring, should i fill the gaps with the saw dust and resin or will this crack and look worse?
Only fill if you sand the floor - use the saw-dust of the second sanding and with the third sanding you can remove the excess filler
My floor was laid a few months ago now I have gaps. It is an 18mm solid oak wood that was floated on a fibreboard underlay by glueing the tongue and grove what can I to rectify this issue.
Installed before Winter? Wait until Spring really gets going, the central heating is turned down and the humidity increases.
Nothing to do with the wintery stuff, everything to do with restoring your wooden floor.
We received the following question (have a question of your own, use the ?Help button at the bottom of every page)
I'm going to belt sand our "5 fingered parquet" kitchen floor. It is not a big floor space but it's looking a bit patchy and faded in parts.
Can you advise the best grit belts to use?
You could start with grit 60, if that doesn't get rid of all the original finish, use grit 40.
For the second sanding round, use grit 80 and then, depending on the finish you planned, use grit 120 for third sanding if you finish with oil - don't go above this grit for oil/wax finish - or 150 if you plan to varnish/lacquer the floor.
For an oil finish, we can highly recommend the Saicos Eco-friendly products, from Permium Hardwaxoil to colour oils, see the category Saicos floor oils and select your best product to finish your wooden floor to the highest standards.